2. engineering

Bogs Paddleducks

My build log of Bogstandard's Paddleducks Marine twin cylinder, double acting, steam engine.
Full build log can be found http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1525.0
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The completed packing glands temporarily in place, I just have to drill the mounting holes in them, and then drill and tap the corresponding holes in the valve blocks.
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The completed packing glands temporarily in place, I just have to drill the mounting holes in them, and then drill and tap the corresponding holes in the valve blocks.

  • Eccentric straps with con rods
  • milling a piece of 4mm thick brass down to the right size for the eccentric blocks
  • The sized blocks, ready for drilling
  • The eccentric straps with rods and blocks completed
  • The fork blanks sized
  • milling the forks
  • A temporary vice stop, used for drilling the holes for the securing pin.
  • The completed fork, milled, drilled and tapped.
  • The completed eccentric system ready to be silver soldered.
  • A length of 20mm brass round bar chucked into the ER32 collet chuck. This is for making the valve packing glands.
  • Drilling the packing gland with a 5mm bit ready for tapping it M6
  • Having fitted a packing gland screw that I had made earlier, I now am drilling both the packing gland screw and the gland itself with a 4mm drill bit, this ensures that both parts have a hole that is concentric.
  • The completed packing glands temporarily in place, I just have to drill the mounting holes in them, and then drill and tap the corresponding holes in the valve blocks.
  • The valve bodies drilled and tapped for the packing glands.
  • A handly little parts storage system that I use for holding all the parts for this build
  • While silver soldering the eccentric strap assemblies together one of them expanded and pushed itself apart. I solved this by reheating the expanded assembly and just pushing the parts closed.
  • Parting off sections of 12mm brass bar to be made into flanges for the steam pipework.
  • To finish the flange-blanks off I made a split collet to hold the flanges to turn them to correct thickness.
  • Then I used the same split collet to hold the flanges while drilling the 2 mounting screw holes.
  • The flanges, complete apart from having the sides milled flat, along with the split collet
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